R.I.P. Eiko Ishioka (7/12/1939 - 21/1/2012)

Being a shameless lover of both movies and clothes, it's not really that surprising that I am a complete nut for costume design, be it sumptuous or slick. And the work of the late Eiko Ishioka, one of the most brilliant and original visionaries in the field, has been my favourite thing about the films she did costumes for for over a decade now - even when they were otherwise rubbish, the chance to see her clothes up close on a 70mm theatrical screen alone made it worth the price of the ticket. To those who are unfamiliar with her, here are some samples of her designs in film:

Dracula (1992)

Corinne Day, "The Long Story" Vogue UK June 2002

This is one of my favourite editorials ever to feature Gisele, not least because (in classical Corinne style) it couldn't be more different from the Glamazon Glory mode magazines usually choose to put her in. It's rather nice to see fashion taking a model with boobs and letting the boobs not be the entire point of the editorial.

Hair: Neil Moodie
Makeup: Max Delorme
Fashion editor: Kate Phelan
Model: Gisele Bündchen
scans by me

Spot The Resemblance: Swans and Rebels* Edition

Again with the Black Swan things, but surely I can't be the only person who thinks that this beautiful poster, below:

looks a lot like

the symbol of the Rebel Alliance in Star Wars? I find it hilarious, given that Natalie Portman actually had a starring role in the (dreadful) prequels.

*misbegotten twist on the title of one of my favourite books of all time. Do read it if you haven't already!

Goodbye, Carine

I can't believe Carine Roitfeld is actually quitting Vogue Paris! On one hand, her logic in favour of going out while she's still on top, and when she's completed a nice round number of years- ten- as its editor, can't be argued with (she'll leave once she's done with work on the March 2011 issue). On the other, I'll miss the frequent cheek and oddly impeccable naughtiness she brought to Vogue Paris*, and whoever succeeds her (Emmanuelle Alt?) will have some major shoes to fill.

Ah, well. From one humble fashion blogger to the woman who is practically the icon of the "Fashion Insiders As Style Inspiration" movement, good luck for the future.

*I will say it though, I'm not a fan of photographs like this one.

On Girls, Gloves And The Art Of René Gruau

...though I suppose it's not quite right to call them girls, given that René Gruau never drew female figures without a strong hint of slink and sophistication, and 'womanly' is very much the appropriate adjective for the general vibe of his illustrations (see another one in this post)

I've always been more than a little in love with the boldness and flourish of his work, combined with the sparse composition- his work (for Jacques Fath, Dior and others) was never short of impact.

If anyone takes a close look at these or larger images, you'll see a spiky star-shape above Gruau's signature in several of his illustrations- after an inkblot fell on his work and he doodled it into the shape of a star, he liked it so much that he adopted it as a motif.

Cruella?

I'm aware that, as per pop culture, the hair really should be white with a black streak (e.g. Daphne Guinness), but really, how was I expected to resist?

Spot The Similarity: The Bear Edition

Perhaps the styling for SM2's Winter 2010 collection is a touch more muted than what it reminds me of, and the model is taller and less tubby, but be that as it may, blue duffle coats like the one below:

will always remind me of this:

Paddington Bear doll, c. 1980

(incidentally, SM2's is also one of the most charmingly styled and shot winter collections I've seen this season, with the added benefit of the fact that most of the outfits actually look like they fall on the right side of warm and comfortable- more about that some other time, and check it out here.)