It's a funny thing, black. I've always found it strange, its simultaneous 'safeness' (discussed within the context of Oscarwear* and everyday clothing) and the connotations of unconventionality that attach themselves to people who choose to wear it in ways that are even slightly out of the ordinary**. Neither of those really bothers me, but a good dose of black is a welcome thing, not least because I really like the colour.Which might be why Yohji Yamamoto is balm to my soul. He's one of the few designers I'm a fangirl of, but I honestly do think, even shoving that aside, that his latest collection is lovely. No, wrong word- 'lovely' is far too insipid here - but it's one of my favourites from the Fashion Week merry-go-round, and the passage of time probably won't change my opinion. There's something about it that, without being 'sexy' in the way we normally understand the term, is incredibly so, with a dash of insouciance thrown into the mix too (those rolled-up sleeves and trouser legs? Perfect). The long skirts and leather jackets are things right after my own heart- I rather like the combination of toughness and swish to it all. And I really, really love the fact that his model of femininity for this collection seems to be someone other than the archetypal sex kitten or the prissy tartan-wearer ladies of Milan Fashion Week...
In case it's hard to tell, I'm thrilled that Paris Fashion Week is here. London was great this time round, but I still can't wait to see what Comme des Garçons etc have come up with. And Balenciaga looks good- it'll actually be pretty interesting to compare the Pre-Fall looks with the actual AW08 ones..
*All the mention I really want to make of that event here is that Marion Cotillard looked lovely. Like a pearly-tailed dark-haired version of The Little Mermaid. And her acceptance speech was adorable. But I still think her BAFTA dress was much cooler. And speaking of The Little Mermaid, if Marion got the fish scales, Tilda Swinton got the hair. And a dress which anyone else would look ridiculous in..and she's still bloody stunning. And how come everyone gets their dresses from the same five places? No wonder they all look like they're wearing the same thing..
** I usually envision Goths and the odd punk when thinking about this, but their own attire has become a standard of sorts through frequent use.
Images: Style.com
In case it's hard to tell, I'm thrilled that Paris Fashion Week is here. London was great this time round, but I still can't wait to see what Comme des Garçons etc have come up with. And Balenciaga looks good- it'll actually be pretty interesting to compare the Pre-Fall looks with the actual AW08 ones..
*All the mention I really want to make of that event here is that Marion Cotillard looked lovely. Like a pearly-tailed dark-haired version of The Little Mermaid. And her acceptance speech was adorable. But I still think her BAFTA dress was much cooler. And speaking of The Little Mermaid, if Marion got the fish scales, Tilda Swinton got the hair. And a dress which anyone else would look ridiculous in..and she's still bloody stunning. And how come everyone gets their dresses from the same five places? No wonder they all look like they're wearing the same thing..
** I usually envision Goths and the odd punk when thinking about this, but their own attire has become a standard of sorts through frequent use.
Images: Style.com
12 comments:
omg! i am also a huge yamamoto fan & can't wait to see comme des garcons & junya watanabe today. great post!
this is when i gawp and think 'god, this is why they're showing their designs to the world' just amazing. but the sad thing is that it's so hard to immitate!
Oh, I loved Tilda Swinton too. She looked true to herself.
The distortion caused by Tilda's dress was fascinating, making it appear as if the right side of her body were inflated out of correct proportion. Which sort of worked considering the wearer, but reminded me of similar distortion in Renaissance paintings; reason unknown.
Yohji--the slim of hip can pull this off brilliantly. The rest of us, there's a lipo special down the street so let's go for it.
That black is far from boring. Details are what I look for, and these clothes have great details.
I love this collection! The black on black, soft vs hard tailoring is perfect.
So maybe black *isn't* all that boring. But this blog certainly is.
Black is a colour that so many people get so wrong.
Gorgeous collection!
There is a consistency to Yohji that I will always have respect for... even if I don't entirely love the collection...
"Yohji Yamamoto is balm to my soul."
you have such a way with words....
i love yohji's work as well; the archetypal sex kitten and prissy ladies of milan is SO not my thing.
Dream - I too love that line! Indeed Balenciaga is a highlight of Paris for me...It is amazing the kind of potential Yohji always sees in black - i mean he always seems to draw so much out of it...
Seamstress of Thought: I'm glad you liked the post- the designers you mention are among my favourites, I don't think I ever get bored by their work..
Selina: I know, but it's not as if we can't take elements off it (the Minnie Mouse wackiness from a while ago was vaguely suggestive of Miu Miu/CDG)...but I still love to look.
Wendy: That dress will draw a lot of 'WTF's, but I still take my hat off to her for it- it was perfect for her. I should have expected no less from Tilda..
Suzanna: I don't think there are too many women who could pull it off, but as you say, it worked because of the wearer.
As for Yohji, I'm not exactly tall or slender and I've worn skirts like that (though not even a hundredth as expensive) often enough- it can work. The rollover at the waist made me wonder if he was trying to recall the schoolgirl skirt-shortening tactic- you know, roll the waistband over. It felt a bit like that..
ENC: I got stuck on the Details page for this at Style.com for ages...I totally see what you mean.
Stephie: I agree with you- I like that setting-off!
X and Y: Whatever, I'll just pinch your cheek the next time I see you (note to everyone: X and Y is a real-life friend who openly tells me my blog sucks. But I'm very fond of him despite that).
Elisabeth: I know, but somehow it hasn't happened here.
Susie: I reckon it might not be universally lovable, but the collection as a whole is something I really liked. It's just the look, I guess..
Dreamecho: I'm flattered! But it was a real soother for me..I've never been much of a fan of supersexy clothing either, so this suits me to the T (assuming I could have it, of course).
Riz: Balenciaga was pretty excellent, I agree with you there. And taking black beyond the one-note uniform aspect is something that Yohji does really well, it could have been flat but it isn't.
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